Reattach loose panels to solid studs with stainless screws or sealed rivets and fresh butyl.
If you have a vintage camper with loose skin, this guide is for you. I’ve restored and refastened many “stick-and-tin” rigs, and I’ll walk you through how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv the right way. We will cover tools, steps, fasteners, sealing, and common slipups. By the end, you will feel ready to fix leaks, stop rattles, and lock that skin down tight for the next road trip.
Tools and materials you’ll need
A good setup makes the job smooth and safe. The list looks long, but most items are simple and cheap.
- Drill and driver with clutch control
- Rivet gun for 1/8 inch blind rivets, closed-end if possible
- Step drill bits and standard metal bits
- Stainless screws, pan head, #8 x 1 inch and #10 x 1 1/4 inch
- Aluminum blind rivets, 1/8 inch, closed-end, color-matched if you can
- Butyl putty tape, 1 inch wide for J-rail and corner trim
- Sealants: Geocel ProFlex RV for vertical seams, Dicor self-leveling for roof-only
- Moisture meter, pry tools, plastic scrapers
- Clecos or temporary sheet-metal screws for holding panels
- Tef-Gel or Duralac to reduce galvanic corrosion
- Exterior wood for framing repairs and construction adhesive with screws
- Painter’s tape, chalk line, straightedge, aviation snips, safety gear
You do not need exotic tools to learn how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv. You need patience, clean surfaces, and the right fasteners.
How 70s RV aluminum siding is built
Most 70s campers use a “stick-and-tin” build. Thin corrugated aluminum sheets lap over each other. They attach to wood studs and roof trusses. The edges sit under J-rail and corner trim with butyl putty underneath. Screws along the J-rail and trim are what keep the skin in place and watertight.
Over time, butyl dries, wood rots, and fasteners loosen. Many owners try longer screws. That only masks deeper issues. You must set fresh putty, anchor into sound wood, and allow for expansion. This is the core of how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv.
Step-by-step: fastening aluminum siding on a vintage rig
This process restores structure, clamps the skin, and seals out water. It is simple, but the order matters.
1) Inspect, map, and prep
- Walk around and press on the siding. Soft spots or flex mean loose framing.
- Use a moisture meter inside. Check corners, windows, and the lower skirt.
- Remove old sealant on trim with plastic scrapers. Label parts and bag screws.
If wood is soft, open that area. Replace studs or sill plates with dry, straight stock. Glue and screw the new wood. Let adhesives cure. This is the foundation for how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv.
2) Find studs and set reference lines
- From inside, locate studs. Most are 16 or 24 inches on center.
- Transfer those lines to the outside with a chalk line at screw height.
- Use a straightedge to keep fasteners in a neat row.
Clean the aluminum with mild soap and water. Wipe dry. Good prep helps sealants bond.
3) Choose the right fasteners
- For trim and J-rail: stainless pan head screws, #8 or #10. Use color-matched if possible.
- For field repairs or original rivet rows: 1/8 inch closed-end aluminum rivets.
- Use Tef-Gel or a thin nylon washer under stainless heads to reduce corrosion.
Avoid plain steel screws. They rust and attack aluminum over time. Pick fasteners with a gentle head that will not dent the skin. This detail is key when learning how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv.
4) Allow for movement
Aluminum grows and shrinks with temperature. To stop oil-canning and cracks:
- Pre-drill holes 1/64 inch larger than the screw shank in the aluminum.
- Every third hole on long runs can be a short horizontal slot. Use a step bit to elongate gently.
- Drive screws snug, not crushing. Think “two fingers on the driver.”
5) Dry-fit and hold panels
- Start at the bottom and work up. Keep lap seams facing down and to the rear.
- Use clecos or temporary sheet-metal screws to hold panels on the chalk line.
- Confirm doors and windows open without rub.
This mock-up makes the actual fastening fast and exact. It also helps you practice how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv before you commit with sealant.
6) Butyl under trim and J-rail
- Lay fresh butyl tape under all J-rail and corner molding.
- Overlap butyl at joints and trim flush after tightening.
- Drive screws from center outward to spread butyl evenly.
If you are using rivets, add a tiny dab of ProFlex in each hole before setting the rivet. It seals the mandrel and keeps out water.
7) Final fastening sequence
- Work in the shade to keep temps stable.
- Set all lower fasteners first to support the panel.
- Then fasten upward, from center to edges, keeping the skin smooth.
- Check for waves. Back out and reset if needed.
When done, wipe squeezed butyl, then run a light bead of ProFlex on exposed seams. You now understand how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv with clean lines and tight seals.
8) Water test
- Wait 24 hours for sealants to set.
- Spray water from low to high, slow and steady.
- Check inside for leaks. Mark any drips, dry, and touch up sealant.
Pro tips, mistakes to avoid, and lessons learned
From years fixing vintage rigs, a few simple moves change everything.
- Pre-drill and de-burr every hole. Sharp edges cut sealant later.
- Do not overtighten. Crushing the skin causes oil-canning and future cracks.
- Replace bad wood now. Longer screws are not a fix.
- Use butyl under all trim. Silicone alone will fail on movement.
- Keep hardware consistent. Mixing screws and rivets looks messy and can move differently.
I once chased a mystery leak on a 1976 trailer. The cause was a single screw driven too tight near a window corner. It bent the lap seam and made a tiny capillary path. I reset that area with a slotted hole and gentle torque. Dry ever since. Tiny details matter in how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv.
Safety, corrosion, and compatibility
- Gloves and eye protection are a must. Old edges are razor sharp.
- Watch for 12V wiring in walls when drilling. Use shallow depth stops near fixtures.
- Stainless on aluminum can corrode in salt or damp zones. Use Tef-Gel, nylon washers, or coated screws to separate metals.
- Do not use pressure-treated ACQ lumber against aluminum. It eats the metal. If you must, isolate with barrier tape.
Sealant choices matter. ProFlex is great for vertical seams. Dicor self-leveling is for horizontal roof surfaces only. Choosing products that match the surface is part of how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv that lasts.
Troubleshooting common issues
- Wavy siding after fastening: Loosen, add slotted holes for expansion, and reset from center out.
- Screws not biting: The stud may be rotten or missed. Probe and add backing wood. Then refasten.
- Persistent leaks at corners: Pull the trim, replace butyl, and seal the joint where rails meet. Cap with a neat ProFlex bead.
- Rattles on the road: Add a few blind rivets along long spans where studs are thin. They act like quiet clamps.
Address these early. You will keep the skin quiet and dry, which is the heart of how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv.
Frequently Asked Questions of how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv
What size screws should I use for vintage aluminum siding?
Most jobs use #8 x 1 inch or #10 x 1 1/4 inch stainless pan head screws. Pick a length that bites at least one inch into solid wood without poking through.
Are rivets better than screws on a 70s RV?
Rivets give a flush, vibration-resistant joint and look factory. Screws are easier to service later. Many restorers use screws on trim and closed-end rivets on panel rows.
Do I need to remove all trim to fix loose siding?
If only a small panel is loose, you can spot-fix. But for leaks at corners, always pull the J-rail or corner molding, reset butyl tape, and refasten for a lasting seal.
What sealant should I use around fasteners?
Use Geocel ProFlex RV around sidewall fasteners and seams. Save Dicor self-leveling for horizontal roof areas only.
How do I stop galvanic corrosion between stainless and aluminum?
Use a thin barrier such as Tef-Gel or a nylon washer under the screw head. Keep joints dry with good butyl and proper sealant.
Conclusion
You can secure vintage aluminum skin with simple tools, good prep, and the right fasteners. Focus on solid wood, fresh butyl, careful pre-drilling, and gentle torque. That is the clean path for how to fasten aluminum sidingsiding from an old 70s rv without leaks, rattles, or waves.
Set aside a weekend, work panel by panel, and test with water before you roll. Your rig will be tighter, drier, and ready for many more miles. Want more hands-on tips? Subscribe, ask a question below, or share your own before-and-after photos.